Crêpes with pickled ramp crème fraîche and scallions.

In Tom Colicchio’s cookbook Think Like a Chef, in his recipe for pickled ramps he suggests that you can make a really good sauce for fish by spooning a few teaspoons of the ramp pickling liquid into creme fraiche. I thought about this recently after I made my most recent batch of pickled ramps, and…

Frozen pea soup from José Andrés’ Vegetables Unleashed.

As I write this, spring is coming to a close but you would be forgiven for thinking it’s already summer by how hot it is in various parts of the country. Hot weather always makes me want to eat raw fish or fish that’s been cooked in acid and sip on cold soups. While gazpachos…