Crêpes with pickled ramp crème fraîche and scallions.

In Tom Colicchio’s cookbook Think Like a Chef, in his recipe for pickled ramps he suggests that you can make a really good sauce for fish by spooning a few teaspoons of the ramp pickling liquid into creme fraiche. I thought about this recently after I made my most recent batch of pickled ramps, and…

Fettuccine with sun-dried tomato and miso pesto.

As much as I love a nice, herby pesto, sometimes I’m craving something a little bit different, and this umami-laden, no-cook sauce fits the bill perfectly. I’ve been on a bit of a kick recently where I combine tomatoes and white miso into various pasta sauces, but this one might be my favorite to-date. For…

Tagliolini with parsley-basil-garlic scape pesto, just in time for summer.

Two years ago, I shared the pasta I served at my brother-in-law’s rehearsal dinner: tagliolini with pistachio-orange pesto, and it feels right to be talking about pesto once again, because who likes making intense tomato sauces once summer hits? (I do, at least when the really good tomatoes start popping up in the market and…