In Tom Colicchio’s cookbook Think Like a Chef, in his recipe for pickled ramps he suggests that you can make a really good sauce for fish by spooning a few teaspoons of the ramp pickling liquid into creme fraiche. I thought about this recently after I made my most recent batch of pickled ramps, and…
RampFest 2022: revisiting all of the hits made with my favorite spring vegetable.
It’s funny how much happiness $20 can buy, at least when it comes to acquiring five bunches of ramps at the Union Square Greenmarket during our trip to New York in April. To say I doted over those ramps in the hotel room–which, for the record, was kept at a very cold temperature to basically…
Images from New York, springtime visit edition.
Anytime I have an opportunity to go to New York I usually jump on it, and when I realized that our most recent trip would coincide with ramp season and I could get some for myself at the Union Square Greenmarket? To say I was buzzing with excitement would be a complete understatement. We started…
José Andrés’s spring leeks with mushrooms from Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America.
Sometimes I’m at a loss for inspiration on what to make for dinner, and that’s when I usually turn to my tapas books to spark my imagination. It may seem counterintuitive to pick several dishes to make instead of just one or two, but I’ve found that once I select one, I can more easily…
Images (not) from New York, Galveston Island edition.
Truth time: even though this trip was two months ago, I struggled with writing this post because I felt guilty blithely writing about a state that passed a barbaric law that takes away agency and bodily autonomy from pregnant people. After a lot of personal deliberation and some inspiration from a friend who did something…
Rebekah Peppler’s frites from À Table.
[Editor’s note: if you’re feeling furious/frustrated/terrified right now in light of the leaked SCOTUS draft opinion that would overturn Roe v. Wade and you’re looking for something helpful to do in the short term, please consider donating to local abortion funds to help those who might find themselves needing a lot more resources in the…
Fettuccine with sun-dried tomato and miso pesto.
As much as I love a nice, herby pesto, sometimes I’m craving something a little bit different, and this umami-laden, no-cook sauce fits the bill perfectly. I’ve been on a bit of a kick recently where I combine tomatoes and white miso into various pasta sauces, but this one might be my favorite to-date. For…
Images (not) from New York, one day in San Francisco edition.
Following our brief detour to Seattle, we flew back to Oakland to spend a few days in the Bay Area. Originally we had hoped that we could stay for a few extra days to see our friends who live out there, but other engagements coming up in the following week would only give us one…
Hugh Acheson’s sous vide cheeseburger from Sous Vide.
Nearly a year after we moved to Baltimore, a new restaurant opened up on Cross Street: Bookmakers Cocktail Club. On a street littered with variations on the traditional pub and/or biergarten, Bookmakers was decidedly different: a quasi-speakeasy with gothic decor, an extensive cocktail list, and upscale takes on Southern fare. It was one of the…
Citrus-cured salmon with latkes, Meyer lemon-fennel cream cheese, sumac-pickled onions, and capers.
After my near-religious experience with the house-cured king salmon at Lowell’s Seafood in Pike Place Market, it was only a matter of when, not if, I would be curing some salmon for brunch when we came home. If you look up “cured salmon” or “gravlax” on this blog, you’re going to find all of the…
The Manhattan [food] Project 